If you decide to breed rabbits in your household, then you should definitely consider where the animals will live. It is best to foresee the possibility of erecting a separate building. But before embarking on the rabbit construction work, it is necessary to choose a place for its construction. An excellent option for this purpose would be a site protected from wind and drafts. In this review, we will look at how to build a barn for rabbits in detail.
How to keep?
Before you start building a barn for rabbits, you should learn more about the main features of these animals. The worst thing for them is the temperature drops. It is best to design the barn so that there are no gaps in its walls. So you can eliminate the likelihood of drafts.
Particular attention should also be paid to the feeding area. Feeders and drinkers should not be located near the animals all the time. They are placed nearby just before the beginning of the feeding process.
To keep the rabbitger clean, dirt and animal waste should be removed regularly. Here at once a completely natural question arises: where is all this stored? If it is not immediately possible to remove the waste, you can allocate a place in the shed itself for a storage pit of excrement. This will help prevent the spread of unpleasant odors.
Let's dwell on this in more detail. The conditions of keeping rabbits will also depend on the purpose of the farm. Animals can live both freely and in cages. They can be under a canopy on the street or in a closed shed. The advantage of the second option is that animals are completely protected from adverse environmental factors. In addition, they do not tolerate the neighborhood with other domestic inhabitants. Therefore, rabbits and chickens in the same barn should not be kept.
The optimal value of air temperature in the rabbit - 12-18 degrees. Fluctuations can be within 5 degrees. Some breeds can tolerate extremely low or high temperatures. However, a significant increase or decrease can lead to illness and death. Also adversely to the health of animals affects high and low humidity. With cellular content, the recommended air velocity in the room should not exceed 30 m / s.
Rational use of space
Keeping rabbits in a shed requires proper cell placement. It is possible to keep both young stock and breeding stock in the rabbit. Young individuals are better to define a special place for walking. Cells can be placed throughout the space. The main thing is that the upper ones should be installed steadily and not fall.
So what are they? Before you start building a barn for rabbits with your own hands, it is worth considering whether it would not be more profitable to buy the finished product. Of course, this option is quickly installed and does not require much effort. However, in this case, you can not individually select the size and design features. To get the rabbitry that meets all the requirements, you will need to do his own building or entrust this work to professionals.
Shed for rabbits from foam blocks
Very often, this material is used for the construction of farm buildings. What is its feature? It is cheap enough and reliable at the same time. Foam blocks have a lower cost of bricks, and the wall thickness at the same time reaches 30 cm. You can also create a combined structure consisting of several types of building materials. Foam blocks are "pyschataschimi" products, so the likelihood of fungus and mold on them is small.
In addition, the room will be quite warm and comfortable. It can not only contain rabbits in cages. In the barn is still really stored various materials.
The advantages of foam blocks as a building material
The main advantage of the material in question is its durability. In this parameter, foam blocks are superior to wood. In addition, they are not flammable. In the room, built of foam blocks, you can easily carry out various communications. This material is easy to shred, so you can easily equip the shed with a heating system, plumbing and electrical wiring.
Like any other building material, foam blocks have their negative sides.
Here are some of them:
- Fragility. Because of this lack of foam concrete blocks, a solid foundation is needed. It is best to use monolithic slabs for this purpose. You can also use strip foundation, but in this case, reinforcing mesh will have to do every 3-4 meters.
- High level of moisture absorption. Foam blocks are required reliable waterproofing, only in this case, you can protect them from moisture.
- Vapor permeability The building must be provided with an external vapor barrier.
In the construction of structures from foam blocks there are certain features. But in terms of reliability and appearance, they are in no way inferior to structures made from other building materials. You can verify this by looking at the photos of finished buildings.
The content of rabbits in the barn in the cages
How to do it right? Many wonder if you can keep rabbits in the barn. Such conditions do not interfere with the normal life and development of animals. The main thing is to keep clean. The air should not contain ammonia vapors and hydrogen sulfide released during the decomposition of manure. Therefore, it is extremely important to prevent the accumulation of waste products of the rabbits in the room. Animals also do not tolerate high levels of dust and lint in the air. Therefore, the ventilation system in the rabbitry must be carefully considered.
What to do when a rabbit got sick? Keep it in the barn with the rest of the individuals can not be, because if the problem is an infection, it quickly spread. It is also better to quarantine the newly acquired rabbits.
This issue should be given special attention. Compared with other pets, rabbits are more demanding of hygiene conditions. Cages and open-air cages, if they are standing outdoors, should be cleaned at least a couple of times a week, better - more often. If animals are kept indoors, cleaning should be done daily. In rooms equipped with special holes in the floor for removing manure, the number of cleanings can be reduced. Also, make sure that rabbits always have a fresh bedding. Daily cleaning are still drinking troughs and feeders.
For home breeding, it is not necessary to build a rabbit shed. You can keep animals in a street aviary. So they will get more UV light, which is very useful. It is recommended to install windows in rooms intended for keeping animals. Their area should be 8-10% of the floor surface area. In addition to natural lighting, it is also possible to equip a rabbit with sources of artificial light. As a rule, they are left on from 6 am to 9 pm. The duration of lighting should be at least 8-10 hours, but not more than 16. The recommended intensity value is 30-40 lux.
What to feed?
In order for animals to be healthy and quickly gain weight, they need to be provided with good nutrition. In the warm season, try to use fresh food to the maximum. The rest of the time you can give the rabbit feed and hay. With this diet, the need for vitamins and minerals is particularly high. Therefore, in food animals need to make special additives.
Differences in the winter and summer maintenance of individuals in the barn
Many amateur farmers prefer to reduce the number of rabbits in cold weather. Only adult breeding individuals stay for wintering. This is a necessary measure. Only in this way will krols survive the cold. With the onset of the warmer season, okrols will resume. Such an approach in small private farms is fully justified. Indeed, in the frosty season, it becomes more difficult to care for rabbits, and the cost of food increases.
Cleaning the barn also turns out to be difficult, as water and excrement at low temperatures freeze. Animals lose weight, productivity decreases. For the winter, cages with rabbits are best moved to a warm room. In this case, the animals will well endure frosts, but at the same time they will continue to breed. This option is only suitable if the farmer is counting on a winter field. If it is enough to keep the livestock at the same level, then rabbits can be left in a cold room. In this case, try to lay out more hay in the cells. Animals can warm up in it. In the winter diet, you can include spruce branches and carrots. Water is offered to rabbits twice a day - in the morning and in the evening, and only in the form of heat.
In summer, the main task of the farmer is to protect the rabbits from overheating. If animals are kept in an open-air cage, make sure that they are not threatened with heat stroke. To prevent overheating, the cells can be covered with straw or hay from above. You can also put them in the shade or under the shed. A shed for rabbits must be provided with a good ventilation system. In hot weather, you can not install cells directly from the ceiling. The air there heats up the most. It is also recommended to make a shade for rabbits in the shade. Make sure that there is always water in the drinkers.
In this review we reviewed the main features of the content of rabbits. The main requirement is hygiene. If you are going to build a barn for rabbits, at the design stage you need to work out a question such as a ventilation system. The air in the room should be clean, but no drafts are allowed.
Features of arrangement
Cleaning the summer cage during the cold season is a rather problematic process. Sewage freezes, and it becomes difficult to wash or tear them off, so the breeders are advised to populate pets in covered areas.
Arrangement of a shed for rabbits
An ordinary barn is suitable as a rabbit, whose average area should be 1 × 1.5 m. However, dimensions may vary depending on the size of the breed, their characteristics and the total number of pets. By design, such premises are divided into two-tier and multi-storey. The same cells can be placed inside enclosed spaces. Here is a list of general recommendations for arranging a year-round rabbit dwelling:
- durable material (brick, foam blocks) that protects walls from drafts and other external influences,
- the presence of ventilation: the rabbit needs fresh air, free from harmful fumes,
- thermal insulation of the room for the winter season,
- safety: avoid sharp corners
- lean-to roof - a practical option, which, moreover, looks good: the farmer will be able to dry hay on such a roof, thereby saving space inside the building,
- sloping floor to optimize the cleaning process
- steel-mesh doors as a combination of reliability and the ability of sunlight to penetrate the shed,
- manure pit,
- division into sections (females / males / juveniles) with a certain size, each of which will be equipped with clean and always full feeders and drinkers,
- availability of grounds for walking young.
When building a barn for rabbits with your own hands you need to act in a clear pattern. Below you will find step-by-step instructions that will help with the systematization and direct implementation of the construction plan.
The best option when choosing a rabbit’s place will be the northern side of the courtyard, located on a small hill and protected from the winds. It is not recommended to have a number of water sources, because you have to dig a hole during construction.
It is very good if a tree grows near the rabbitcher, under which you can shelter in hot weather.
The rabbit size does not exceed the size of the dwelling for other domestic animals and birds.
What should be rabbitry
The development of infectious diseases, frequent injuries and poddermatitis are the first signs of improper keeping of rabbits. In the future, this will inevitably lead to a decline in productivity and loss of livestock. In order to avoid losses, the breeder needs, in addition to the front of feeding and watering, to pay close attention to the specifics of rabbit housing and animal planting density.
According to rabbit breeding requirements, a well-designed rabbitry should not only protect pets from inclement weather, but be a cozy home for them with good lighting, ventilation and walking distance. It is important to provide adjustment of the impact of external factors that depend on the time of day, season, weather. For the construction of rabbit housing suitable any material. However, experienced breeders advise the use of a wooden frame and a net fence. This is due to their reliability and durability. In addition, in the heat of the wood does not heat up, which is very important for residents.
It is unacceptable that rabbit feces are collected inside the structure. Ammonia and hydrogen sulfide fumes will provoke respiratory infections in pets, and dampness and dirt will serve as a favorable environment for the development of pathogenic bacteria and fungi.
To solve this problem and facilitate maintenance of the rabbit, many breeders advise installing a mesh floor inside the structure. Experts strongly discourage such an initiative, citing a high degree of injury and frequent cases of trauma in rabbits. The best option is wooden slats and a soft mat laid on top of them. Also, a rabbit breeder should take into account the sensitivity of their wards to air exchange and dampness. Consequently, a good ventilation system, excluding drafts, should be provided in their home. To ensure high productivity, experts advise to keep the humidity in the cell at 60–70%.
Choosing a place
The features of the rabbit abode are that it should not collect ultraviolet rays on itself, and at the same time should be a reliable protection for its residents from dampness and cold. This can be achieved by choosing the right place to house the rabbit.
Experienced breeders advise:
- Avoid wetlands, because this kind of soil will lead to rapid deterioration of the material, as well as to diseases and death of pets.
- Give preference to elevated areas away from the lowlands, water bodies and other sources of dampness.
- Putting rabbit cages in shady areas, as the animals react painfully to direct sunlight. This is especially true in the summer. Otherwise, to protect the eared from the scorching sun will have to with the help of an additional canopy.
- Keep pets away from noise. Consequently, for rabbitrers, places near the production areas, busy highways or in the vicinity of predators are absolutely not suitable.
- Place the building on the east or west side, because eared are very afraid of wind and drafts. For protection, you can plant the northern wall of the rabbitry with a thick hedge.
Depending on the number of tenants, plan the dimensions and type of rabbitry. It is important for the builder to understand that the entire area of the structure will be further divided into a walking compartment and a deaf zakut. The first zone in most cases is the space under the cage fenced off by the grid. And the second is a deaf box.
A removable door is fastened on the front side of the building, and a small manhole is provided on the wall adjacent to the free-standing space. Under the floor, be sure to provide a pan to collect feces. Many breeders for group breeding eared use group multi-tiered design. On them, as well as on the simplest cells, it is recommended to provide a single or gable roof. Usually it is made on the last tier, and all the previous ones are covered with pallets.
Whichever option you choose, the rabbit house must be inaccessible to rodents and predators. Therefore, it is recommended to install it at a height of 80-100 cm from the ground. In addition, this solution will greatly facilitate the care of animals.
For the winter, the cell must be insulated so that the temperature inside the room corresponds to the range of + 10–20 ° C. Also, the builder should provide for the possibility of additional lighting of enclosed structures. In the cold season, the length of daylight hours for rabbits should be at least 10 hours. Ideally, this problem is solved using a window installed on the east wall.
Сталкиваясь с разными трудностями при выращивании ушастых зверьков, кролиководы постоянно усовершенствуют самодельные крольчатники. Поэтому на сегодня существует множество проектов их постройки.
Особой популярностью у заводчиков пользуются следующие варианты:
- клетка с маточником,
- многосекционные версии,
- парные конструкции,
- rabbitries Zolotukhin,
- mini-farm Mikhailov.
How to make a rabbit with their own hands
The construction of the rabbitry is actually a simple task if you have all the necessary drawings on hand. But to create them, the first thing to do is to determine the number of rabbits and the type of design. And then you can proceed to the most difficult and crucial stage.
Dimensions and drawings
Dimensions of rabbit housing are based on its purpose and characteristics of the breed. These nuances should be taken into account by correcting the following versions of the drawings. For convenience, we offer to be guided by a selection of professional recommendations:
- The classic version of the queen cells provides for the length of the walls in the range of 170–180 cm, height of 60–70 cm and a depth of at least 100 cm.
- The height of the excavated props, on which the entire structure is installed, must correspond to 70–80 cm from the ground (do not forget to leave a margin for the recess.
- For adult rabbits weighing from 5 kg, the size of the room is calculated taking into account 130-150 cm length, 70 cm depth and 50 cm height.
- The maintenance of young stock requires the construction of multi-sectional structures, where 8–20 animals would fit at the same time. In each section, no more than 4 rabbits are put in age from 0 to 3 months. Consequently, the height of the cage can be reduced to 35 cm, but the area of the pen is increased to 0.25 square meters. m
- Grown up youngsters are grown in individual designs, the minimum sizes of which correspond to 100 × 60 × 60. If we are talking about sexually mature males, then these dimensions should be increased by 30%, otherwise a sedentary lifestyle in cramped conditions will lead your pets to infertility.
- When building multilevel sheds, consider their maximum length 210 cm and depth 100 cm.
Very comfortable single or two-piece design for outdoor walking under the cage. The construction is a wooden frame with a ladder and a mesh fence.
Materials and tools
Before starting the construction, prepare everything you need, so that you do not get distracted by empty searches. Many rabbit breeders who make their own homes for pets use scrap materials. In our case, it will be enough to prepare:
- 10 wooden bars 3 m long, with a section of at least 60 × 60 mm (for the frame),
- soft tile (ruberoid, polycarbonate or slate will be suitable as an alternative),
- planed boards about 30 mm thick,
- plywood sheets 1.5 × 1.5 m in size and 10 mm thick (for plating),
- wooden slats with a cross section of 25 × 40 mm,
- welded mesh with cells 2.5 × 2.5 cm,
- bolts, screws, fasteners and nails,
- furniture dowels,
- gate valves
- door hinges,
- handles (for transportation),
- metal sheet 1 m long (for the construction of a pallet),
- iron corners,
- foam plastic (for insulation and sound insulation),
- pipe (for ventilation)
- pencil (for marking),
- sandpaper coarse fraction
- elastic glue
- sharp metal scissors
- riveter or construction stapler,
- saw for wood,
When the entire arsenal of necessary tools and building materials is assembled, you can proceed to the measurements and preparation of parts. Let's start in order.
For the manufacture of this part of the rabbit, 4 vertical supports and 8 transverse bars will be needed. The action algorithm is as follows:
- In accordance with the drawings, measure the desired length and saw off the workpiece.
- Drill holes at the ends of the details and with the help of metal corners attach them with screws. In the case of a multi-tiered structure, be sure to provide a space of up to 15 cm for each pallet after each tier.
- The front and rear bars connect the transverse slats. This is the basis for the cell.
- Measure from the harvested wooden bars 4 legs to the rabbit house. Prick them to the resulting wooden rectangle in such a way that the height remains 30–40 cm from the floor.
- Now you can start the construction of a deaf pen. Many breeders build it with a removable plywood bottom to prevent increased damp inside the cage. Therefore, this part of the house must be completely made of boards or plywood.
- Install a plywood partition with an oval hole for the passage of rabbits between the nesting and walking areas.
- Now lay the floor on the bottom of the rack structure, leaving 1.5 cm gaps between them. If you retreat more, the animals will get stuck in the gaps and injure their paws.
- Cover the framework with boards, having provided a window opening.
In this case, a double slope roof is proposed. In its manufacture will be involved frame slats and polycarbonate.
So, we proceed:
- From the rails build the base. Fasten with screws or nails.
- Secure the cooked part to the main frame of the rabbit house.
- Boards sew the base of the roof.
- Cover with roofing material, securing it with self-tapping screws.
In the design under consideration, there are 2 doors: the first for servicing the rabbitry, and the second for accessing the animal to the walking area.
They are made as follows:
- Make a frame from the rails, the dimensions of which should not exceed one third of the facade wall of the structure. Details fasten at the expense of metal corners.
- Sew a plywood sheet. Alternatively, any other solid material can be used.
- Drill holes for mounting canopies, after making their measurements.
- At the final stage, attach the door latch.
- The second door leading to the walking area, make the same principle. Its dimensions should be calculated within 35 × 45 cm. At the same time, it should pass freely in the opening.
- Fastening the second door provides for the use of hinges in the upper part, so that the ward with a light touch can freely go and enter.
Sheathing of the walls and door of the walking area
At this stage the rabbit house and the frame of the walking area attached to it should already be ready. Its base is made of 5 rectangles of the same height, which will serve as the walls of the building.
Sex for walking is not necessary, because it will be replaced by grass. This option is very convenient in that the animal will always have access to succulent feed.
But do not forget about the ability to dig eared burrows. To keep pets from escaping through the tunnel, it is recommended that the bottom edge of the net be dug 20 cm into the ground during the plating process.
Further actions are as follows:
- Attach the mesh to the fabricated frame using tin clips.
- Cover the paddock with a lightweight waterproof material.
- Separately, by the same principle, fasten the mesh fence on the door frame. After that, attach the latch.
This detail should be placed in the rabbitry so that the animal could easily get inside the house. Experienced breeders advise to make a smooth slope, but at the same time the bottom edge of the ladder should not rest against the wall of the fence.
So, we proceed to construction:
- On a flat surface, attach transverse strips to 2 parallel to the laid long rails (there should be at least 5 of them).
- Sew a gap in one piece. Alternatively, you can use a sheet of plywood. Extremely undesirable for such purposes, metal, plastic and other slippery materials. It is important to ensure that there are no large gaps in the design, since these defects are fraught with injuries to the pet.
- Using self-tapping screws, attach the ladder to the base of the house.
Feeders and drinkers
In the house near the door, attach a manger for hay. For this ideal metal rods attached to the walls at a slight angle.
In addition to the already provided sennik in the rabbitrel you need to put a water bowl and a feeder. It is important that these containers can not be overturned or clogged with animal excrement.
Therefore, experienced breeders advise to get a purchased drinker, which from the inside is attached to the front side of the cage. A feeder can be built independently. This is done like this:
- In the rabbit house to one of the walls (choose the one to which it will be convenient to feed your pets without scaring them) vertically attach 4 wooden slats so that you have a rectangle out. This will be the frame of the bunker. The length of the blanks should correspond to the height of the walls, because the trough will be filled through the raised roof. If this is not possible, then the height of the tank will have to be reduced by a quarter so that the animal is comfortable to get food. The bottom of the formed figure should be 10 cm long.
- Having retreated 10 cm from the last pair of nailed rails, pin similar 2 blanks, reducing their length by a quarter. This will be the frame of the feeder itself.
- Sew the sides of the L-shaped frame with appropriately cut pieces of plywood.
- The front side of the bunker, too, close the vertical plywood rectangle. Note that its long side should not rest against the floor, since such an arrangement of parts will block access to the animal feed.
- From plywood cut the bottom of the feeder and attach it.
Winter cell insulation
To wards rabbits comfortably wintered, without reducing their productivity, it is necessary to warm the rabbit from the inside with foam plastic. Also for these purposes you can use:
- fallen leaves
- dry reed
After that, put a thick layer of bedding on the floor. In the autumn-spring period, it is important for rabbits that their paws are protected from pressure sores and cold. Sawdust, coarse straw or hay of soft awnless grass crops are ideal for bedding. Particularly attentive to the choice of material should be with the content of downy breeds. Caught in their coat awnings cause discomfort and pain. Straw is preferable for bedding because it keeps you warm and is safe for the rabbit.
Remember that the larger the pet, the more litter it needs. For adults, a layer thickness of 12.5–15.5 cm is suitable.
In the harsh winters, the rabbitks are covered with old cotton blankets and other warm clothes, and the inner space is filled with hay.
Now you know about the main requirements for a rabbit house, the density of animal landing and the creation of cozy conditions for their maintenance. We hope our article will help you to independently make a reliable and comfortable rabbit.
Video: DIY rabbit cages
Where to begin
When designing at the initial stage, you need to take into account the size of the breed, age groups and gender of pets. It is desirable to simplify the structural elements in order to be able to “increase” it with little effort. The cells should be provided with unhindered access for disinfection, inspection of animals and feeding. Comfortable conditions for rabbits imply a spacious and comfortable home.
First you need to choose a place for the rabbit. The site should be in the shade so that in summer the sun does not fall into the cells. It is advisable to place the building on an elevation, otherwise during heavy rains pets can flood. You can not settle animals near the compost pit - this will increase the risk of infection. It is not recommended to install cages and shed close to sources of strong noise (cages with a dog, roads).
Carefully choose the raw materials for construction. The rabbit heart made of durable eco-friendly materials will last much longer and will have a positive effect on the health of pets. You also need to consider that the design of the summer type should be raised above the ground by 1 m. In the barn, you should eliminate the dampness, drafts and provide ventilation.
Rabbit sizes are calculated according to the following parameters:
- 2 adult pets - 140x70x60 cm. A feeder and a drinker are installed near the cage walls. The side wall is made of mesh and fastened at an angle. In addition to the separator sections, this element serves as storage for feed. If you plan to settle a lot of pairs of rabbits, make up a multi-layered construction of the cells to save space. If there are three or more tiers in the lower sections, ventilation should be provided.
- Young animals (2 animals) - 250x90x50 cm. So much space is required for animals under 2 - 3 months. For one pet you need to allocate 0.12 m2.
- The rabbit with cubs is 35x30x25 cm. This is the size of the nest plus 0.6 m2 for the female.
Depending on the number of animals and breeder's abilities, the rabbitre come in different types:
- into 2 sections,
- single tier,
- with an aviary,
- extension to the barn.
Since it is impossible to build a rabbitry with your own hands without preliminary planning, you must first make drawings with all sizes. This should take into account a number of recommendations.
- If you are not going to transfer the cages to the shed for the winter, the structure should be raised 1 m above the ground, otherwise the pets will freeze.
- Divide the rabbitry into 2 sections - for young and rabbit. Females should be in the shade all the time, the lighter room will suit the youngsters.
- So that the young ones do not crawl out of the nest, it is necessary to provide a partition 10 cm high.
- It is recommended to upholster the building with metal sheets, otherwise the tree will rot.
- A fine-meshed net should be laid on the floor and a pallet should be placed under it.
- Sections for pregnant rabbit should be closed with doors, the facades of the remaining cells can be upholstered with a grid.
- Depending on the rabbit design, you need to design the ventilation.
- It is desirable to provide an aviary for walking animals. The framework is taken from a frame of wood and covered with a grid.
For construction you will need the following materials:
- metal corners,
- galvanized iron sheets,
- roofing material
- support beams, wall boards,
- metal strips and fine mesh for the floor,
- nails, screws, locking hooks,
- pipes for ventilation,
- insulation material.
The size of a single cell should be at least 70x50x50 cm, and boards should be chosen for it. Also for the frame you need 4 beams and 8 metal corners. We build on this principle:
- at the base and under the roof, we connect the vertical beams with tightening boards with the help of the corners,
- in the midst of the construction we mark the floor and fasten 4 beams along its contours,
- if the rabbitry is designed for several sections, we nail the vertical boards that will hold the separation grid,
- in the center of the base, if necessary, fasten another 2 boards for the stability of the pallet,
- we wrap all metal parts with wooden bars,
- corners are recommended to put on the screws for the remaining elements, you can use screws or nails.
A fine-mesh mesh is placed on the floor to make it easier for the breeder to clean the cage. But since such a device brings inconvenience to animals, a covering of thin bars is made from above, and gaps are left between them. Boards are recommended to be laid at an angle of 45 ° to the transverse beams of the frame, otherwise eared animals may catch on and hurt themselves. Here you need to consider that pets will periodically gnaw a tree.
In pet stores plastic traps are sold especially for rabbits. They are put on the grid instead of wooden bars. The advantages are obvious: such devices are easy to clean and they will not rot. Some breeders use a cheaper option - plastic containers for fruits. Their frequent replacement will not hit the budget.
Depending on the planned rabbit device, plating will require boards, plywood or galvanized iron sheets, as well as a grid:
- inside the frame is covered with a grid - so animals will not be able to gnaw wooden structures,
- cutting it or fixing it with a solid piece depends on the desire of the breeder, but regardless of this, the mesh covering is pressed against the beams with metal corners with the help of tightening clamps (otherwise rabbits can get hurt about its edges)
- the back and side walls are covered with plywood or boards to prevent drafts,
- if several sections are made in the rabbitry, they are previously divided by an interval framed by a large mesh - feed will be poured there.
As a roofing material, you can use any non-leaking raw materials. Usually a canopy is made of roofing material, which is placed on a solid inclined base, although slate will do as well. It is not recommended to cover the rabbitry with iron sheets, as in summer it gets very hot and it will be hot for pets. Also, do not take a flat slate, otherwise in the rain water can flow into an undesirable place.
For convenience, the door is better to do folding. They knock together from thin boards and fasten on loops nailed to the bottom of the cage. A locking hook is placed on top of the door. But do not use metal corners or sheathe them with iron sheets - this will make the structure heavier.
Stages of construction
The list of tools that will be needed during the construction of the shed under the rabbitry include the most ordinary nails, hammer, mesh and plywood. Любому животноводу достаточно вооружиться чертежом и приступить непосредственно к работе.
Для начала требуется рассчитать необходимую площадь со всеми размерами, учитывая количество кролей и их пол/возраст. The space for the cages must be spent economically, and the animals must be left with sufficient free space. In the drawings, you should plan the passage between the enclosures. A more detailed outline of the future design is presented in the video.
As can be seen from the article, making a rabbit with your own hands is quite realistic, even for a beginner. It is only necessary to strictly follow the advice, and everything will turn out.
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There are several different types of rabbit hunters, which differ in the number of tiers and sections. There is also a division by gender of their inhabitants and age. The older the animal, the more space it needs for comfortable living. If it is not enough, then the rabbit can get sick and die. It also negatively affects the quality of meat.
The content of rabbits in the cages
It is necessary to choose a specific type based on the amount of free space and the conditions of the rabbits.
Group cage for young
They can simultaneously contain up to 20 individuals, but each must account for at least 0.5 square meters. meter The height of the walls is from 35 cm. It is recommended to make a checkered floor so that the paws do not get stuck and the animals do not hurt themselves. Also it is necessary to protect all wooden elements with a net so that animals do not spoil the frame.
Sample cage for young
It should be a bit bigger. The minimum dimensions are 1000x700x600 mm. These sizes are relevant when keeping only one rabbit. There is a necessary living space here, so the animals feel comfortable. Aft compartment and nesting place can be separated by a partition.
Basic rules for making cages for rabbits
It is required in the period of the cycle. Two individuals can live in it simultaneously. The mother liquor is considered a removable compartment: there are babies up to one month. The rest of the cage is called fodder. The gap between the cages must be of sufficient size so that animals can easily move from one compartment to another. The floor should be made of wood. In winter, straw is required as a heater.
An example of cells with mother liquor
Features of the content of rabbits in summer and winter
In the summer they can be kept outdoors. This may be in a cage that is under a canopy, or in a shed with a manhole to the street.
Rabbit made of wood
Important. Rabbits dig the ground, so you need not only to install a fence or other fencing, but also to make the flooring of the boards around the perimeter so that the animals do not dig.
When it's warm outside and rabbits are free-range, they will look for their own food. However, greenery, which is located on the site, will not be enough. It is important to additionally give feed and fortified supplements. It should be noted that the feed for chickens will not work for rabbits, as there is a different content of minerals and vitamins.
Feed for rabbits
Animals are kept without any restrictions until the air temperature outside will not fall below 10 degrees. They may live for a short time at -30, but if they are kept for long periods in harsh conditions, they become ill and die.
Thus, in winter, rabbits are required to give enhanced nutrition, so that they actively gain weight. Cells are transferred to a warm room (with this type of content). If rabbits are kept in a hole, then it is recommended to close the hole to prevent cold from getting inside.
Benefits of content in cells and pits
It is necessary to consider the main advantages of breeding rabbits, using all available methods.
Table 1. Methods of breeding rabbits
It is important to understand that keeping animals in a pit is more pleasant. However, they are gaining weight more slowly due to physical activity, they mate without taking into account breeding requirements, as well as with the disease of one individual there is a high probability of an epidemic spreading. Also, the farmer can not examine in detail each rabbit as needed.
The content of rabbits in the pit
We build rabbitries themselves
Before you begin, you must take all the required materials and complete the drawings. Based on how many individuals will be contained and in what way, the size of the structure depends. Climatic conditions, in turn, affect the need for the use of insulation and an additional heating system.
It includes several important nuances:
- it is required to carry out drawings taking into account the size of everything that will be in the room in order to have an idea about the free space inside the room,
- the building should be raised at least 1 meter above ground level so that the amount of cold air that enters in winter is minimized,
- cell division by age of their inhabitants and gender, if it is planned to have cellular content (females need a shaded angle),
- the presence of a small (10–15 cm) fence in front of the entrance to the barn so that the children do not jump out of it,
- there should be a grid on the floor, and females need to make a pallet,
- the place where the rabbit rabbit is located should be closed with a tight door, not a net,
- for walking you can make a small aviary,
- the ventilation system should work equally efficiently throughout the rabbit’s territory,
- the room must be of high quality so that there are no drafts in it and the air temperature is maintained at a certain level.
It is recommended to upholster the shed with iron in order to reduce the impact of external factors on it and to prolong its service life.
Required materials and tools
For work required without fail:
- metal corners,
- iron (preferably galvanized),
- bars and boards, which are used to create the frame,
- polystyrene or other insulation materials
- ventilation tube.
Also need to provide a lighting system. It is important for rabbits that the light be turned on at once in the whole room, and its brightness is even. The exception is shaded corners for females who are preparing for okolu.
You will also need a hacksaw or hand saw, pencil, hammer, grinder, puncher, elastic glue, metal scissors, riveter and tape measure. With all this, you can start building your own rabbit shed. However, you must have certain skills for this. In their absence, it is better to contact the experts. They will build any complexity for a small fee.
How to make a drawing of cells and shed yourself
When compiling it, it is necessary to understand the structure of the shed and cells. So, you need to imagine where the troughs, drinkers, a place for young and pregnant rabbits will be located. The building itself must be placed on a small hill. As a rule, the size of the shed is 4.5 x 4 meters, as this is the best option for most breeders.
Here are some features of drawing up the inside of a drawing:
- cells are placed in several tiers to save space,
- all walls, except the front, are deaf, they serve as additional protection against drafts,
- for suckling females in the side of the cage, it is necessary to make a nest in the size from 0.65 × 0.55 meters, and the design itself is equipped with insulation,
- the outer doors of the cells are mesh, and the door of the barn itself is deaf,
- if a plot for walking is planned, then it must also be equipped with fences and drinkers in sufficient quantity.
Important. It is strongly recommended to warm the shed in regions with cold winters. This will avoid the disease of rabbits.